Located just an hour from the city of Bilbao, the Rioja wine region is an enchanting and easy day trip to explore the most of Basque country. If you only have one day, these 5 tips will be worthwhile.
The reason you might be in Bilbao, Spain in the first place is because your intended destination is San Sebastian, the culinary mecca in Spain known for its many Michelin star restaurants and beautiful beaches.
At least that was my intention too, but there are more many more international flights to Bilbao than to the smaller airport of San Sebastian. Once in Bilbao, it is an easy one hour bus ride to San Sebastian. (The direct high speed train to connect the two cities is currently being built, otherwise the status quo train route takes four hours.)
As long as you're in Bilbao, then you might as well visit the famed Guggenheim Museum, which transformed the city from an industrial port in decline to a renowned worldwide, tourist destination.
Built in 1997 and designed by Frank Gehry, the structure represents a ship in the waves, made of titanium, limestone, and glass.
My day tour began at the world's largest flower sculpture in front of the museum, known as Puppy, created by American artist Jeff Koons.
That was the pickup spot for a day trip wine tasting in Rioja Alavesa with Northern Spain Gastronomy.
Tip #1: They drive on the right side of the road in Basque country. Getting from Bilbao to Rioja is an easy, little more than an hour drive on very well paved highways. Otherwise, you can book a day tour, though there are limited spaces given by small tour companies.
What you may also not know about Basque country is that it rains more than London. The weather forecast may say sunny all day, but rain can still drift in and out throughout the day. However, once you cross the Cantabrian mountain range into the rolling hills of Rioja, you leave behind whatever wet weather might be in Bilbao. It's nearly always sunny in Rioja.
Tip #2: If you don't like the rainy weather in Bilbao, head to Rioja for sunnier skies.
Rioja Alavesa is one of three subregions that comprise the greater Rioja region. It looks like a storybook with rolling green hills dotted with tiny medieval villages and lush grapevines. Wind your way down the smooth, 2 lane roads, with barely any other cars on the road.
It's almost like you've stepped back in time, until you come across a one of the architectural gems in the region, Bodega Ysios.
Ysios started in 2001 by making traditional Rioja wines with DOC certification. But they later decided to pivot and focus on avant garde, boutique wines always with the highest quality in mind. Their attention to detail reflected in every part of the wine tasting and tour from the size of the group (12 people by appointment only) to temperature of the wines tasted and jamon served. They also have a female winemaker, Clara Canals.
Tip #3: Be sure to check out Ysios Winery by booking in advance. They only give small group tours for 50 euros, and tickets are extremely limited each day.
Of the 3 wines tasted, I found the white wine, named Blanco, most interesting. The hand harvested grapes are fermented in separately in four different vessels: concrete egg, tanks, oak barrels, and a small portion with skin in clay amphora. The blend is then aged for 9 months on the lees.
Directly across Bodega Ysios is the picturesque villa of La Guardia with a population of just 1500.
Tip #4: Enjoy a breezy, al fresco lunch of pintxos in the picturesque village of La Guardia on the sun dappled patio. (There is only one restaurant that has a large patio.)
As is typical of pintxo bars, there is a colorful display of a variety of bites to choose from. Pintxos are similar to the small portion concept of tapas but typically consist of a piece of bread with something on top held together by a stick.
White asparagus is in season from April to June. It can be found in many European markets but not so much in the US. In this tapa it's topped with olive oil and a gardinera 'sauce' of bell peppers and onion.
The other popular winery in to visit in Rioja Alavesa is Marques de Riscal. Their wines can be found at Bevmo wrapped in their signature gold mesh.
The building on their premises, designed by Frank Gehry, is actually a hotel. You don't get to go inside the building on the winery tour, aside from the basement where they rack the wines.
The wine tasting at Marques de Riscal consisted of two red and one white Rioja wines accompanied with Spanish charcuterie and breadsticks. Unfortunately, you had to consume all of this standing, which was a bit tiresome after walking through the entire wine tour.
Tip #5: Skip the wine tour at Marques de Riscal, since it requires a lot of walking and standing outside under the hot sun. Taste wine inside the air conditioned large, attractive bar area with seated tables.
Overall, the mix of stunning, modern architecture with a timeless medieval landscape makes for a unique wine country visit. The day trip to Rioja from Bilbao should not be missed.
To learn more about other wine country road trips, check out these posts from the World Wine Travel writers:
- Regenerative Organic: Farmed Like the World Depends on It + the Feral Wines of Tablas Creek by Camilla at Culinary Cam
- Exquisite Sips and Sailings: Carnival Cruiseline Wine Package by Terri at Our Good Life
- On the Road from Paris to Champagne" by Jeff at Food Wine Click!
- A Dreamy Day Trip to Rioja from Balboa by Deanna at Wineivore
- Soaking In Wine Country – How to Do it Right! By Robin at Crushed Grape Chronicles
- Travel in Tuscany: From Rome to Altura at Isola del Giglio and La Maliosa at Saturnia and back by Gwendolyn at Wine Predator
- Planning A Relaxing Wine Trip – Thank Gosh Our Strategy Changed! by Lynn at Savor the Harvest
- At home and abroad, all roads lead to wine by Linda at My Full Wine Glass
Lynn says
Living in Bordeaux and visiting San Sebastián a lot, we can't wait for the 'Basque Y' high speed train you mentioned to be finished; 2027 is the forecasted completion, but it's been delayed several times so who knows. Love your tip #2, I'll add Bordeaux to the 'don't like rainy weather in' part. Rioja is a super place to go anytime, and given your tips, one will be prepared. Cheers Deanna!
Camilla Mateo Mann says
When we make it to Spain to visit our friends, I will definitely share these tips with them.
Camilla Mateo Mann says
We have friends who live in Spain and they have been asking us to visit. I will certainly share your tips when we go!
Martin Redmond says
Some great tips here Deanna! We visited San Sebastián about 10 years, as well as Rioja. Wish we had known a few of these then. Hope all is well!
Jeff says
All great advice! We did a very similar trip a few years ago, starting in Bilbao, going to Rioja, then off to San Sebastian.
Linda Whipple, CSW says
Fantastic photos and valuable tips! The Ysios Blanco sounds like my kind of wine, too. We almost booked a trip to Bilbao and San Sebastian last summer, but chose more time in Portugal instead. Maybe next time!
robincgc says
A dear friend of mine has just moved home to Madrid, which has us seriously considering a trip to Spain sooner rather than later. I will bookmark this for your tips when we go!
Wendy Klik says
What a fantastic trip. You sure squeezed a lot into that day!!!